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Not getting lost in Tangier’s medina

Everyone’s saying it: Tangier has outgrown its reputation as the Tijuana of Morocco to become its St.-Tropez. I had been looking forward to my trip to Tangier for months, and I had been wanting to go...

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Shopping in Istanbul

Talk about a shopper’s paradise! I’m not usually much of a shopper, but Istanbul makes me want to buy everything in sight. Here are some favorites: Cocoon This is possibly my favorite shop in Istanbul,...

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Christmas in the City

As you might imagine, Christmas in Spain is a bit different from the US. Instead of trimming the tree and waiting for St. Nick, Spaniards construct elaborate belenes, or nativity scenes, in their...

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Loli, Loli, Loli, Get Your Alpargatas Here!

There’s an old madrileño saying that goes: “Hasta el cuarenta de mayo, no te quites el sallo.” Literally translated as “don’t take off your sweater until May 40th,” it means that you can’t count on...

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Franco lives on at Casa Pepe

Wow. Literally, wow. On the way from Castilla-La Mancha to Andalucía sits Depeñaperros, a dramatic gorge and eponymous town that’s home to Casa Pepe. This roadside stop is famous throughout Spain as a...

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Five ways Madrid has changed me

The good folks over at Guiri Guide asked me to write about how my attitudes and Spanish experience have changed in the more-than-six years I’ve lived in Madrid. Here’s what I came up with: I eat a lot...

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O Little Town of Belén

From Playmobil figurines to video installations to 17th-century works of art, Spaniards go nuts for belenes. When I was a kid, I used to love setting up the nativity scene. We had a beautiful,...

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I need Spain

I’ve been back in the US for a little over a month, and while I’ve enjoyed placing my cookie order with a neighborhood Girl Scout, slurping noodles in Chinatown after the New Year parade, and watching...

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